Debate: Sustainability challenges for the fashion industry with Malle Kivikas “Second hand is important, but it’s not the entire solution”

As sustainability and environmental awareness gain prominence in social debates, second hand shopping has become a popular choice for many. While second hand purchases are often among the most sustainable options, some debate that challenges may still persist. In this article, we meet Malle Kivikas Ankarcrona, founder and concept developer at EsterDesign and exhibitor at Fashion Week Trade, who is passionate about sustainability. Malle shares her perspective on creating a more sustainable clothing consumption.

Second-hand clothing is one of the most sustainable options for fashion consumption today—but could it also have negative consequences?
The basic problem is today’s over-consumption and the increasing consumption of garments that are worn only a few times due to poor quality. This problem is not solved by second hand, as these are garments that have no value on the second hand market. The trend may even fuel increased consumption, as those who over-consume low-quality garments can continue to do so without having to think twice, and are morally free to do so, as it is difficult to question anyone who advocates second-hand.

What are the advantages of second hand?
Second-hand is beneficial as it allows for renewal without burdening the environment, provided the quality holds up.

How does second-hand shopping alleviate consumer guilt while overconsumption persists?
Research shows that many people who over-consume do so in search of happiness or fulfillment, not because they actually need to buy something new. The current craze for second-hand goods means that we sometimes forget this basic problem, as overconsumers can claim that their overconsumption does not end up on the rubbish heap but is useful to someone else. The problem is that low-quality garments have no value on the second-hand market and are therefore of no use to anyone else. 

The same research also shows that the happiest consumers are those who have the opportunity to consume, but choose not to. So some of the over-consumption may be due to the pursuit of happiness, which from a sustainability and public health perspective is not true.

How does media influence consumer behavior towards sustainability and fashion?
Several companies with a strong sustainability focus have learnt that buyers may be interested in their products, but are not willing to pay for the higher quality because they want to be able to renew frequently. And then price comes into play. There is a strong focus on trends and seasons, which means that a little extra is required of those who want to be inspired without having to focus on buying new. In addition, there is probably a knowledge gap regarding what production and its environmental impact look like. For those who lobby for sustainability, it would be desirable if more people understood what production looks like, not only for the environment but also in terms of the working environment, and then have the strength to change their buying behaviour based on that knowledge. 

Those who today choose to invest in quality and wear garments for a long time are rarely highlighted in the media, even though they contribute to healthy thinking. When those garments are finally worn out, after many years of faithful service, it is perhaps conceivable that they have saved enough on their emissions account during their lifetime and can therefore be discarded in the regular household waste – because it is easier than going to the recycling centre with bags of textiles. Second hand is not the only sustainable option, we should talk more about how to achieve sustainable consumption.

How can brands in the fashion industry promote sustainability through their production methods and collections?
In the clothing industry, there are brands where this is the core of their business. Many want to focus on quality, good working conditions, good material handling and logistics that are environmentally sustainable. This can involve basic collections where quality and design mean that they last for many years and can be used on several different occasions, with several different annual collections. We need to move towards a circular approach to extend the lifespan of our purchases, and consumers need to be able to care for the products they buy so that they last longer and we can reduce consumption. This means that we need to put a higher value on what we buy.

To summarise, second hand is an important element in the transition towards more sustainable consumption, but it is not the whole solution. To make a real impact on our environmental footprint, we need a shift in the way we think about consumption in general, from buying more to buying better and using for longer. This means we need to value quality garments and start thinking long-term, both as individuals and as a society. Only then can we create a clothing industry that is both sustainable and truly ethical.